Distinctive colors of M'nong brocade

Without being told, as naturally as trees grow in the forest and water flows through a stream, generations of M'nong women in Dong Nai have quietly preserved and passed down their traditional weaving craft. Amid the rapid pace of modern life, brocade products are more than clothing or blankets; they have become family heirlooms that embody the spirit and cultural identity of an indigenous community.

M'nong women are passionate and proud of their traditional weaving craft, which has been recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage element.

In recognition of its distinctive values in material processing and pattern creation, the traditional craft of M'nong brocade weaving in the communes of Bu Gia Map, Tho Son, Phu Son, and Dak Nhau was inscribed on the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2023.

Sophistication in every pattern and fabric

Unlike industrial textiles, M'nong brocade is regarded as a work of art. Living in close harmony with nature, the M'nong people incorporate elements of the natural world into every thread they weave.

According to M'nong artisans, producing a complete brocade item in the past required an exceptionally meticulous and labor-intensive process. Every stage, from growing cotton and spinning thread to crafting looms from forest wood and collecting tree bark and roots to make natural dyes, demanded patience, skill, and experience.

Thi An De is regarded as a master brocade artisan in present-day Tho Son, not only because of her talent and skillful hands, which have woven hundreds of brocade pieces, but also because of her deep understanding of the entire process of making brocade and the cultural depth of the weaving craft. Thi An De said that with brocade, artisans must be able to identify and harvest the right natural materials, such as leaves and forest bark, to create unique and distinctive dyes. Natural fibers make M'nong brocade warm to wear in winter and cool and breathable in summer. The intricate patterns on brocade are inspired by daily life and labor. Through the skillful hands, talent, creativity, and meticulous work of generations of women, colorful brocade products of varied designs have been created, remaining beautiful and durable over time.

“In the past, completing the entire process from growing cotton to spinning and dyeing thread took a full year. Today, artisans can shorten the production process by using commercially available yarn, allowing them to spend more time on weaving and creating patterns. If we continue weaving entirely in the traditional way, labor costs would make the products too expensive for consumers. This is an issue the State needs to study to support the community in redefining product segments,” said Thi An De.

Among the M'nong community, brocade plays an important role in both material and spiritual life. Dieu Dieu, Head of the Ethnic Affairs Committee of the Dong Nai People's Council, who has extensive knowledge of the indigenous cultures in Dong Nai, said, “Brocade serves many purposes. It is used as a blanket during life, and when a person passes away, a brocade blanket is also used as a shroud. Brocade is made into baby carriers, women's skirts, men's cloaks, ceremonial offerings, bags, and many other items. Therefore, it holds tremendous economic and cultural value.”

Highlighting its significance in traditional customs, Thi An De said, “A daughter must prepare a brocade blanket, skirt, or shirt that she has woven herself to present to the groom's family as part of her dowry when she gets married. It is a gesture of sincerity and respect, and a testament to the young woman's value.”

Distinctive tourism products

In the past, M'nong women often spent their spare time after the harvest weaving fabric for household use or exchanging it for livestock and rice. Today, however, brocade production faces both challenges and opportunities in the market economy.

“Making brocade is extremely difficult, labor-intensive, and time-consuming. Every pattern reflects a different way of thinking. It is encouraging that as I pass this craft on to the younger generation, they continue to learn, explore and weave,” Thi An De said. While generational continuity is an encouraging sign, keeping a traditional craft alive and thriving takes more than love alone.

From the perspective of management and preservation, Dieu Dieu said, “Brocade is a cultural heritage transmitted through oral tradition and cultural practices, making it vulnerable to disappearance if not carefully safeguarded. However, preserving it also means enabling the community to earn a living from the craft. In other words, we must transform heritage into an economic asset.”

From an item once used in everyday exchange, M'nong brocade has now become a distinctive tourism service product and an indispensable color of traditional costumes at cultural festivals in Southern Vietnam. Together with the brocade of the S'tieng, Ede, and Choro ethnic groups, the indigo and red hues of M'nong brocade have been weaving a radiant brocade-like feature, further enriching the colorful cultural tapestry of Vietnam's ethnic communities.

In 2023, the traditional craft of M'nong brocade weaving in the communes of Bu Gia Map, Tho Son, Phu Son, and Dak Nhau (Bu Dang District), formerly Binh Phuoc Province, was inscribed on the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. This recognition honors and affirms the historical, cultural, and scientific values of the traditional craft while acknowledging the efforts of local authorities, the culture, sports, and tourism sector, and, in particular, the dedication of artisans and the M'nong community to preserving and promoting the value of brocade weaving.

By Minh Luan – Translated by Minh Hong, Minho