Thanh Son banh gai keeps tradition alive amid modern life

Amid the rush of modern life, the glossy black banh gai (thorn leaf cake), rich with the aroma of thorn leaves and freshly milled glutinous rice flour, continues to hold a cherished place in the lives of the Tay community in Thanh Son commune, Dong Nai province.

More than just a rustic delicacy, banh gai reflects the Tay community’s rich spiritual and cultural life, strong community bonds, and deep gratitude toward ancestors.

A bridge linking seasons of filial gratitude

For the Tay people, banh gai is not only a familiar part of daily life but also a sacred offering in essential ceremonies. The cake is traditionally presented to ancestors as a symbol of abundance, reunion, and sincerity, especially during the full-moon days of the first, seventh, and eighth lunar months.

The traditional banh gai of the Tay ethnic group in Thanh Son commune, Dong Nai province, is both a daily staple and a sacred item during significant rituals. Photo: Le Trung

Among these occasions, the full moon of the seventh lunar month is especially meaningful, as married daughters return to their parental homes and bring a pair of banh gai cakes as offerings to express complete filial devotion. For families whose parents have passed away, the pair of cakes placed on the ancestral altar becomes a spiritual link, an intimate act of remembrance and profound gratitude to their forebears.

In hamlet 8, Thanh Son commune, Hoang Thi Huyen has devoted herself to preserving that hometown flavor. Her childhood memories are closely tied to the image of her mother, working by the kitchen fire and carefully making cakes for each festival and Tet holiday.

More than a simple dish, banh gai makers help preserve memories, customs, and traditional ways of life passed down through generations. Each cake embodies respect for the past and the desire to keep traditional flavors alive amid a changing pace of life. According to artisan Hoang Thi Huyen, crafting banh gai that is true to its original taste requires meticulous technique, patience, and years of experience.

For artisan Hoang Thi Huyen, making authentic banh gai requires careful craftsmanship and long-standing experience. Photo: Le Trung

According to her method, making banh gai begins with simple steps but requires a certain level of finesse, from selecting and trimming the leaves to drying, washing, boiling, and grinding them. The leaves must be at the right stage of maturity and sun-dried properly to retain their natural fragrance. Then, they are boiled until soft, squeezed dry, and finely ground into a smooth paste. The dough is made from a harmonious blend of carefully selected glutinous rice, soaked sufficiently and finely milled, then mixed with thorn leaf paste and sugar until the dough reaches the desired elasticity and smoothness.

The appeal of banh gai also lies in its filling made from mung beans, shredded coconut, and roasted peanuts. Photo: Le Trung

The appeal of banh gai also lies in its filling, made from mung beans, shredded coconut, and roasted peanuts, which is slowly cooked over low heat to create a rich, harmonious flavor. The outer layer is wrapped in carefully prepared, dried banana leaves, which contribute to its distinctive aroma and extended shelf life.

“No stage in making banh gai is unimportant. From preparing the leaves and dough to the filling and wrapping, every stage must be done carefully for the cake to achieve its proper taste,” Huyen emphasized.

According to Nguyen Van Minh, Head of hamlet 8, Thanh Son commune, artisan Huyen’s banh gai is widely recognized not only for its flavor but also for the meticulous care invested in each stage. The product is sought after and highly appreciated by people both inside and outside the area.

.Aspiration to “keep the flame alive” and expand the craft

Amid modern life, as many traditional crafts gradually fade, Hoang Thi Huyen’s persistence in staying with banh gai comes from a strong sense of responsibility and a burning dedication to preserving ethnic identity. She shared that while the craft was once common in her old hometown, in the new locality, only a small number of households still keep it. Although the economic returns are modest and the work requires significant effort, she remains determined to keep her workshop running so that the traditional flavor is not forgotten over time.

Not stopping there, she also serves as a bridge, passing the craft on to the next generation, patiently guiding her daughters-in-law and neighbors so they can work together to preserve the way of life of their family and their locality.

Artisan Hoang Thi Huyen continues to maintain her workshop and devotedly passes on the craft to the next generation, so traditional flavors will not be forgotten over time. Photo: Le Trung

Matajisu Hong Que, Huyen’s daughter-in-law, said that after she married into the family in hamlet 8, her mother-in-law devotedly taught her the traditional techniques of making banh gai. “For me, learning how to make cakes is not only a responsibility but also a source of happiness. It helps me feel more deeply connected to the family line’s way of life and identity,” she shared.

Thanh Son commune is working toward linking banh gai with cultural and festival activities, gradually promoting it as a regional specialty under OCOP standards. Photo: Le Trung

Recognizing both the cultural values and existing economic potential, the authorities of Thanh Son commune have been actively preserving and promoting this cake. Vo Van Trung, Deputy Secretary of the Party Committee and Chairman of the People’s Committee of Thanh Son commune, said the commune is home to the Tay community and is also one of the localities where the gai plant can be grown, a key ingredient for making the cake. During festivals and Tet, Tay residents continue the tradition of making banh gai, thereby contributing to the preservation of traditional cultural values.

“The locality plans to link banh gai with cultural and festival activities, gradually promoting it to build it into a distinctive regional product that meets One Commune, One Product (OCOP) standards. This endeavor not only helps preserve cultural identity but also creates stable jobs for local women and elderly people,” Vo Van Trung, Deputy Secretary of the Party Committee and Chairman of the People’s Committee of Thanh Son commune, emphasized.

Today, the rustic banh gai of Thanh Son, a remote commune in Dong Nai province, stands as evidence of the enduring vitality of Tay culture. It is a symbol of memory and community bonds, cherished and passed down through many generations.

By Le Trung, Ha Le – Translated by Minh Hong, Minho